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The average American consumes fifty five percent of their total calories in the form of ultraprocessed foods.
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Ultraprocessed foods have long been suspected of being at least somewhat responsible for the rise in obesity and metabolic dysfunction in the United States and much of the developed world.
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Incredibly, the first randomized controlled study to examine the question do ultraprocessed foods cause weight gain?
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It occurred in 2019, just a few short years ago.
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And the study concluded, perhaps not surprisingly, that ultraprocessed foods, when compared to unprocessed foods, do lead to weight gain.
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In what is generally considered the most important study on the subject, performed by the top U.S.
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government nutrition scientist at the time, a gold standard study, a randomized controlled study, researchers randomly assigned participants into two groups.
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They fed one group a diet consisting of ultra-processed foods, and the other a diet consisting of unprocessed foods.
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Now, before you guess what happened, let me add an important detail.
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Each diet, both the ultra-processed and the unprocessed, were designed with the same calories, same protein, sugar, fat, fiber, and other important micro and macronutrients.
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Still, at the end of the time on the ultra-processed diet, participants had gained about two pounds from their baseline body weight.
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Those on the unprocessed diet, they've lost about two pounds.
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Now, as a skeptic of ultra-processed foods, as someone who is a big believer in the power of whole foods, of real foods, you might assume that I'd view this study as a slam dunk, a home run, irrefutable proof that science is finally coming around to something that many of us have concluded a long time ago.
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But that's not the case.
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Because there are some important limitations with this study that make certain associations a bit weak.
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Limitations I find a bit puzzling.
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And perhaps more importantly, one of the most important insights that I think we actually can take away from this study that I've never heard anyone talk about.
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But we're going to talk about all of this today.
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With that, I'd like to welcome you to another episode of Unconditional with Norby Shickle.
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It's great to be back behind the mic.
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If you've been with me before, it's great to speak with you again.
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If you're new to the show, welcome to you too.
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We've got an exciting episode, and we're going to talk ultra-processed foods.
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And we're going deep here.
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Okay, we're getting into maybe the most important study ever performed on ultra-processed foods.
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And more than that, this is a conversation that hits on a few topics that we've touched on a bit before.
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But we're going to continue to chip away at this, right?
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These are questions related to the value of science with respect to human health and nutrition, unpacking the benefits of, and yes, there are many and costs associated with ultra-processed foods.
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And I guess what you could call a degree of skepticism on my part for what's often referred to as calories in, calories out, or energy balance, or the law of thermodynamics as an explanation for weight gain and metabolic dysfunction.
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Now, I am happy to admit my bias right from the start.
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Okay, this is a perspective which has been informed by my own experience.
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Okay, a lot of you already know this, but at one point in time, in my adult life, I should say, I was nearly 50 pounds heavier, okay, officially obese based on BMI.
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I was overweight, inflamed, and I was getting worse every year.
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But a few simple, powerful diet and lifestyle changes not only enabled me to lose the weight, but also to get lean, to get ripped, and to continue to feel better every year.
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I mean that literally.
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But it's also a perspective which has been shaped by reading the work of people like Dr.
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Weston A.
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Price.
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And I'll say not simply reading and listening to what other people say about his work, but actually reading his own words, Nutrition and Physical Degeneration, a book in which I believe is maybe the most important book written on human nutrition ever.
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Okay, full stop.
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You know, truly without equal.
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Price's travels and study of the incredible health of people following what he referred to as a primitive diet, what today we probably would refer to as an ancestral diet or a traditional diet.
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I might even call a whole foods, right, nutrient-dense diet.
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But that book is incredible.
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And it's also a perspective which has been shaped by simply paying attention to the world around me, including the health, longevity, and vitality of the people alive today.
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And it's hard not to notice that the modern world is struggling when it comes to health and fitness.
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We've gone through a lot of these stats before, but with 70% of the adult American population as obese or overweight, with an estimated 40% of us diagnosed with cancer at some point in our lives, 23% of us diagnosed with a mental disorder, and nearly 30 million Americans medicated for depression, all of which has occurred despite the greatest rise in technology and medicine the world has ever seen.
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It just seems blindingly apparent to me that something is off, it's something fundamental is off.
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And while I'm very grateful to be living in a world of wired science and medicine, we would be very wise to think very critically as individuals, because science changes all the time.
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And I remind you, that is a feature, okay, not a bug.
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Within my lifetime, the number of times that the consensus scientific opinion has been flipped completely on its head, it's too many to count, right?
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From the food pyramid to seed oils to our understanding of herd immunity.
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Is it possible that our very understanding of calories, what's described as the quote, energy of a food based on thermal heat generated when lit on fire, which let's just pause for a second and reflect on the fact that that is a very, very different process than how a body extracts energy from a food.
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Although it would be kind of cool if we did.
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But is it possible that our very understanding of calories as we know it may one day be accepted as incomplete?
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Maybe.
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But either way, whether you were in the calories don't count camp or in the law of thermodynamics camp, we don't need to resolve that now.
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Okay, we're going to plow ahead and we're going to discuss one of the most important studies in nutrition science ever.
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And it deals with the question of ultra-processed foods and weight gain.
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Do ultraprocessed foods lead to weight gain?
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And this study was performed by a guy named Kevin Hall.
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For those who listened to my episode on carbs versus fat, episode 24, I highly recommend checking that out if you haven't.
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But if you did listen to that episode, this name will be familiar.
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He's the lead author on another study, which has also been described as one of the most important studies on human nutrition, okay, a study which examined low carb versus low-fat diets and the effect on weight loss and fat loss.
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Now, both of these studies, the study I'm going to talk about today and the study from two weeks ago, they're both randomized controlled trials, okay, which makes them somewhat unique from the perspective of nutrition because randomized control is considered the gold standard when it comes to medicine, but there aren't that many of them in nutrition.
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Like they're very expensive to do.
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So Kevin Hull is no lightweight, okay?
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He was the leading nutrition researcher at the NIH at the time.
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So I want you to keep that in mind as we dive into the study on ultra-processed foods and whether these foods lead to weight gain.
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Now, before we get into the study, let's touch on the stakes and context in just a little bit more detail.
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Okay, I've already given you some of my own personal reasons for discussing the study and why I think it's very significant.
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But there's a much broader context here.
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The health implications of ultraprocessed foods is actually very significant.
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At the time of this recording, ultraprocessed foods make up a huge percentage of the diet of the average American and many other places in the developed world.
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A recent study from the CDC says around 55% of the total calories for Americans are coming from ultraprocessed foods.
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And setting aside what you probably suspect about the health implications for just a second, America's growing dependency on ultraprocessed foods is not without reason.
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Ultraprocessed foods have a lot of benefits.
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They're relatively cheap, they're convenient, reasonably tasty, they have a long shelf life.
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And given the current environment of rising food prices and the decline in the number of families with, say, one stay-at-home parent and time constraints that many families are under, you can see how ultraprocessed foods can serve as a much appreciated lifeline for many families.
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Before we say anything about the health implications of ultraprocessed foods, we will and should always keep that in mind, because that's not trivial.
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Think about it like this.
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If food is food, if a calorie is a calorie, if macros and micros are the only thing that matters, then ultraprocessed foods cannot be a driver of metabolic dysfunction in and of themselves.
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And therefore, any criticism of ultraprocessed foods or suggestion that limiting their inclusion in, say, school lunch or food assistance programs like SNAP will absolutely drive up costs, reduce convenience, and eat into the time of people who are very likely to feel they're already at their limit.
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As evidence for this claim, we can consider A, the fact that according to government estimates, 70% of commercially available food products in the United States are ultra-processed.
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Clearly there's a market.
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And B, we can look at the very study itself, the one we're going to talk about today, in which the cost of the unprocessed diet in the study was approximately 50% more expensive than the ultra-processed diet.
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Keep in mind, these two diets are matched for calories and macros and many other important micronutrients.
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And I believe that's just the food cost.
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Okay.
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In other words, that's not including the time or the labor costs associated with the additional prep for the unprocessed diet.
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I believe they actually hired professional chefs to prepare the unprocessed meals.
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So clearly that cost was not factored in.
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So the point is that this topic is much bigger than my own personal story, and it's much bigger than my own personal bias.
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We have real-world, very tangible considerations here.
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And in light of the sharp rise in the increase of ultra-processed foods and the parallel rise in obesity and metabolic dysfunction, the implications for a study like this are very significant.
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And I'll go ahead and point out that this is not lost on the researchers.
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But in order to really appreciate the impact here, we got to start on something that very few people do when it comes to this subject.
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And that is to define what we mean by ultra-processed foods.
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So what exactly are ultra-processed foods?
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I think it's fair to say that for most people, the term ultra-processed foods is sort of a, you know, I know it when I see it kind of a definition.
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Clearly, packaged junk foods falls into the category of ultra-processed.
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But beyond that, things get a little bit fuzzy.
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But there actually is a working definition of ultra-processed foods.
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And it comes from a group of researchers in Brazil led by Carlos Montero.
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Okay, and it turns out that this definition is critical to the story that we're going to tell today.
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Now, they came up with a classification system that they call NOVA.
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This isn't an acronym, but the NOVA framework groups foods into one of four categories.
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Okay, and in order to get into this, I'm going to quote from a book that I've mentioned before.
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I like this book a whole bunch.
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It's called Ultra Processed People, written by Dr.
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Chris Vantoliken.
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I think I'm pronouncing that correctly.
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Okay, highly worth the read, highly worth the purchase.
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As I always say, grab a copy, grab two copies, give one away.
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And he's got some great insights on this study, on Kevin Hall's work in general, right?
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Actually both studies, but on this study in particular, and on the Nova framework and much, much more.
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Okay.
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So let's hear from Van Tollikan describing the Nova framework directly.
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He says, quote, the first is unprocessed or minimally processed foods, foods found in nature, like meat, fruit, vegetables, but also things like flour and pasta.
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Group two is processed culinary ingredients, including oil, lard, butter, sugar, salt, vinegar, honey, starches, and traditional foods that might well be prepared using industrial technologies.
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Group three is processed food, ready-made mixtures of groups one and two, mainly processed for preservation.
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Think of tins of beans, salted nuts, smoked meats, canned fish, chunks of fruit and syrup, and proper freshly made bread.
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End quote.
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Okay, so these are the first three.
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I think they're fairly straightforward.
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We could maybe have some minor arguments about which should belong in which group.
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I imagine that many of us might not think of a can of tuna as a processed food, but as a working definition, this is a good start.
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Okay, category four is when we get into ultra processed, and this is where much more explanation is required.
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Ventolikan says, quote, and then we come to group four, ultra processed foods.
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It's long, perhaps the longest definition I've ever read of a scientific category.
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Quote, formulations of ingredients, mostly of exclusive industrial use, made by a series of industrial processes requiring sophisticated equipment and technology.
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Okay, that's confusing, but not all.
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Processes used to make ultraprocessed foods include fractioning of whole foods into substances, chemical modifications of these substances, processes and ingredients used to manufacture ultraprocessed foods are designed to create highly profitable, low cost ingredients, long shelf life, emphatic branding, convenient as and ready to consume, hyperpalatable products liable to displace freshly prepared dishes and meals made from all other Nova food groups.
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End quote.
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Okay, that is a lot.
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When we get into the realm of ultra-processed refractioning foods, we're adding chemicals, we're substituting ingredients as a means of managing costs as opposed to improving the nutritional profile of the food.
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And we're really using technology to create something that is unlike anything found in nature.
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Now, admittedly, there's a lot to that definition here.
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But if you're looking for the punchline from the team of Brazil, we get it directly from Fernanda Rauber, where she says, quote, it's not food.
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It's an industrially produced, edible substance.
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End quote.
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Tell us how you really feel.
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But this is where things get even more interesting.
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At least to me they do.
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And you won't find this in this study directly.
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But again, check out Van Tulligan's book and you'll get a lot of the history here.
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But Kevin Hall, and keep in mind, this is our top government nutrition scientist here at the time.
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He designed and orchestrated this study because when he first heard about this definition of ultra-processed foods, right, this Nova framework, and it was making some waves in Brazil.
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But when he first heard about it, he thought it didn't make any sense that a calorie is a calorie, right?
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Law of thermodynamics.
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So the author of this study assumed that this study would show that when you normalize for calories, specific macros and a few micros, and I'm paraphrasing here, but you would see the same results whether following an ultra-processed diet or an unprocessed diet.
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Let's pause there for a second.
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This study, the gold standard funded by our tax dollars, top guy in the field, was not to explore the potential damage of ultraprocessed foods.
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It was to debunk the claim that ultraprocessed foods were causing weight gain.
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To me, this is hugely important.
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And keep in mind, if you caught the episode two weeks ago, this is the same guy who supposedly debunked the carbohydrate model of insulin resistance.
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Again, with a randomized control trial, one of the very few that we have.
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Very expensive, funded with taxpayer dollars.
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I find this significant because one of the key arguments in favor of ultra processed foods is that even if they lead to weight gain, it's not because the foods in and of themselves are problematic.
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It's because we overconsume them.
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In other words, we could still eat them, but we need to just eat the same number of calories we would if we were eating whole unprocessed foods.
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If we had a little bit more willpower, you know the story.
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Eat less and move more.
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The same thing that we've heard for the last fifty years as waistlines have continued to expand, as our metabolic health has continued to suffer.
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And as we'll discuss, although this story does conclude, perhaps unexpectedly, that ultra-processed foods lead to weight gain, the study design makes it impossible to challenge the calories in, calories out model of weight gain.
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And unfortunately, I've seen this misrepresented a lot when people discuss this study, including by people whose work I really like.
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Because although the meals and snacks were designed to be matched for calories, protein, sugar, fat, fiber, and other micronutrients, they were only matched in presented calories, not in consumed calories.
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This is a significant difference.
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The participants in each group, whether they were on the unprocessed diet or the ultraprocessed diet, they were free to eat as much or as little as they wanted.
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And when it was all said and done, it is true that participants gained weight while on the ultraprocessed diet, and they actually lost weight on the unprocessed diet.
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However, the researchers calculated that those on the ultraprocessed diet consumed an average of around 500 additional calories per day than those on the unprocessed diet.
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Again, calories in, calories out.
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So we cannot really know what would have happened if the consumed calories had been the same.
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Not from this study.
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And again, this is maybe the most important study on the subject ever.
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And if you're thinking, well, maybe there's a good reason for this, you know, maybe it would be unethical, say, to limit calories for some reason.
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Well, no, not an issue.
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In fact, that's exactly what was done in the low fat versus low carb study that we discussed two weeks ago, also by Kevin Hall.
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So it can be done.
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Why wasn't it done in this case?
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I don't know.
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But given the skepticism towards ultra-processed foods as the cause of weight gain in the first place, given the history of debunking via randomized control trial, I'll say this it has my spidey sense tingling.
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But I could be wrong.
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Obviously, I'm biased, but it is something to think about.
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So let's discuss the study and feel free to come to your own conclusions, right?
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Of course, while I may have ways I would have preferred to see the study done, I am still incredibly grateful to Kevin Hall and his team for having done it.
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I'd like to see more like it.
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Okay, so the study involved 20 people, 10 men, 10 women, randomly split into two groups.
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And like with the fat versus carb study, this is a randomized controlled study, right?
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So no epidemiology, no self-reporting, strict control over what's being eaten in movement, body weight taken, body fat calculated with DEXA scans, and more.
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Okay, the total study is four weeks.
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And again, in a format which will be familiar to those who listened to my episode two weeks ago, half of the people, 10, were initially put on the ultra processed diet, which consisted of three meals a day plus snacks.
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The other half, also 10, were put on an unprocessed diet, which also consisted of three meals a day, plus snacks.
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And this initial phase lasted two weeks.
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And then after two weeks, the groups were flipped.
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Those on the ultra-processed diets were moved to an unprocessed diet, and vice versa.
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So while the total study was four weeks, the time on each diet was only two weeks, okay, with no washout period before or after either diet.
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And I said it in our discussion on the last study, but I'll say it again.
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I really don't like this.
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Okay, I'm not a researcher.
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I get it.
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I'm just a fitness nerd Monday morning quarterbacking, what I guess is standard.
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But as a guy who's been into health and fitness for my whole life, two weeks to assess changes to a diet, I mean, unless it's really extreme, it's just nothing.
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Okay, I know these trials are expensive, resources are scarce and all that, but I would have much preferred to see one group just go the full four weeks on the ultra-processed diet and the other group to go the full four weeks on the unprocessed diet.
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I think we would have just seen much, much clearer results.
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Still, when it's all said and done, the study found that while on the ultra-processed diet, participants gained about two pounds.
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And while on the unprocessed diet, they actually lost weight.
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Okay, they lost about 0.9 kilograms, so an equal amount of weight, also about two pounds.
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Okay, so that's about two pounds of weight gain in two weeks for the ultra-processed diet.
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But that's actually about a four-pound swing when you consider that the unprocessed diet actually lost about two pounds.
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Okay, so that's not nothing.
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But two pounds in two weeks, as anyone who's dieted, which I'm assuming is most of us, that's not a massive amount of weight in the grand scheme of things.
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Over two weeks, sure, but at two pounds, the numbers on the scale really aren't that reliable.
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We might be talking about changes in water retention due to sodium intake as an example.
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What we'd really like to know is how much fat is being gained or lost.
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And in addition to body weight, the researchers measured body fat using a DEXA scan.
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And unlike the carb versus fat study that we talked about two weeks ago, which again, a dietary intervention that was only six days, so the DEXA scan didn't show much.
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In this case, the DEXA scan showed a gain of about 0.4 kilograms of fat, so about a pound of fat in the ultraprocessed group, and a loss of about 0.3 kilograms, or about three-quarters of a pound, in the unprocessed group over the span of two weeks.
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Now, a DEXA scan is considered the gold standard for measurement of changes in fat mass.
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And here, I think they're probably at least directionally correct, these are pretty small changes, right?
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Especially at these low levels, a DEXA scan is very susceptible to say differences in fluid retention, something that the researchers do acknowledge.
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They say, quote, the relative large fat-free mass changes may be due to extracellular fluid shifts associated with differences in sodium intake between the diets.
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Indeed, individual differences in sodium intake between the diets were significantly correlated with changes in fat-free mass and body weight.
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Such fluid shifts may also affect the accuracy and precision of the measured body fat changes.
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End quote.
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Okay, now what they're saying, it's a bit buried here, is that changes in both fat mass and body weight were significantly correlated with individual differences in sodium intake.
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Okay, I take that to mean, and I'm happy to correct this if I'm misinterpreting here, is that individuals within the study eating different levels of sodium saw significant differences in the numbers on the scale and the numbers showing in the DEXA scan.
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Again, something which a longer intervention period, say the full four weeks, rather than flipping the groups and controlling for what was actually consumed as opposed to what was presented, could have solved for.
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So how much of what we're seeing is true weight loss, true fat loss versus differences in water weight?
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I'm not sure that anyone can say with precision.
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Okay, so that's the study in a nutshell.
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And of course, I've been giving you some of my thoughts as we've been moving through it on the design and on the results, but I want to add a few more, okay, some very important points for your consideration.
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We've discussed the limitations with respect to duration.
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We've discussed what I believe was a missed opportunity with respect to matching the diets in terms of calories, macros, micros, and presented versus consumed, as was done with the low carb versus low fat diet by the same guy.
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And I want to explain why I think this is such a miss.
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On the one hand, as someone with a strong bias in favor of whole foods and concerned about the negative health effects of ultra-processed foods, the overall conclusions from the study, they would seem to strengthen my position.
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But one of my biggest issues with this study is that the limitations I've described in both the design and duration of the study, they leave the door wide open for a wide range of alternate, and I believe very reasonable, disparate conclusions, quite easily supporting and reinforcing whatever bias a person had before reading the study.
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For people like me, skeptical of ultraprocessed foods, we can point to this study and say, see, ultraprocessed foods cause weight gain and fat gain.
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For people who argue that food is food, it's only the macros and the nutrients that matter, they can point to the increased consumption of calories and say, well, sure, but only if you eat them in a calorie surplus.